Dear Natalie,
Boom. We were packed and ready to go when FedEx arrived at 9:30 this morning with our passports, and we were on the road a minute later. Thanks to Tommy and Tom at home for their help with that!
We drove straight north from Coeur d’Alene on Highway 95 to the Canadian border. I was curious if we were going to need ID after all, or if a smile and a wave would get us through. But the no-nonsense customs agent immediately asked for our passports, and I didn’t want to mess with her.
It was a long day of driving — about six hours, but it seemed a lot longer. The two-lane Crowsnest Highway zig zags north and south, then north and then south again as it threads its way through the Canadian Rockies, following a mid 19th-century gold rush trail. This was one of the most beautiful drives of the trip.
Dad and I had a bet, of course -- about how many Tim Horton doughnut shops we’d pass. The over-under was three, and I took the under. I imagined that we would be driving all day through dense Canadian wilderness. To my surprise, we passed through a few decent-sized towns and, in total, saw six Tim Horton restaurants.
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| In Cranbrook, BC, there is not one but TWO Tim Hortons -- one on each side of the street. |
We entered Canada in British Columbia, then crossed into Alberta. The landscape quickly dissolved from rugged mountains to rolling, grassy plains. But soon after that, we turned south and once again saw gorgeous, jagged peaks looming in the distance.
When we entered Waterton Lakes National Park, we immediately noticed the trees — charred from the Kenow Wildfire, which started in August 2017 and burned for several weeks, ultimately destroying 38,000 hectares, including 19,000 hectares — or 38 percent — of the park.
A few miles down the road we finally glimpsed the Prince of Wales Hotel. It sits on a bluff above Middle and Upper Waterton Lakes, and below the mountains and the huge moody sky, which make the seven-story building look like a dollhouse.
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| We learned that the 2017 fire came within 100 meters of the hotel, and that guests had two hours to evacuate. |
The hotel was built in 1927 by the Great Northern Railway to lure American tourists during prohibition. It was originally designed as a three-story, 300-room hotel, but the builder changed his mind multiple times during construction, meaning entire wings had to be re-built. The final result was this 86-room hotel built in the style of a Swiss chalet.
This is why skipping our stop in Canada was not an option. Nat, when you were a newborn, I would binge-watch the Travel Channel while I camped out on the couch and snuggled and nursed you. One of the shows was about great hotels of the northern railroad. I was enchanted by the images of the Prince of Wales Hotel and its dramatic setting, and vowed that one day I would visit. And here we are! I wish you were here to share it with us.
It seems that most of the kids working here are high school and college-age kids from the nearby town of Cardston. When we arrived, all the staff — who wear Stewart plaid kilts every day — were also wearing Santa hats and tinsel, while Christmas carols played in the lobby. It’s the 25th: Christmas in July. I guess they do whatever it takes to keep things interesting up here.
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| We have a fantastically roomy lake-view suite! Luxury! |
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| The view from our room! |
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We ate dinner in front of the huge plate-glass windows in the lounge when a deer wandered past! (Yes, that is a fire hydrant.)
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It was fun to FaceTime with you tonight while you were working on your project, which I’ll share here for others to see. We’ll see you a week from tomorrow! Can’t wait!
I love you and miss you, as big as the sky.
Love, Mom
xoxoxoxo










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