Day 20 — Glacier National Park

Dear Natalie,

We hiked 13 miles today. We are trashed. Here are photos of our adventure.

Good night.

Love, Mom

xoxoxo

We got up early and passed the park’s west entrance gates by 8 a.m. We planned to hike the Highline Trail, which starts at Point A and ends 12 miles later at Point B. So we parked our car at end of the trail and tried to catch a shuttle to take us the rest of the way up the mountain, to the trailhead at Logan Pass. We would then spend the day hiking back down to our car. Bad: When we got to the parking lot at about 8:50 a.m., there were already 30 people in line for the shuttle. Worse: In the next 90 minutes, only two shuttles came, and they were already so full that they could only take on two people each.

A War of Attrition: While we continued to wait for the shuttle, almost all of the people in line ahead of us gave up and hitch-hiked or car-pooled farther up the road. Eventually, we were next in line. Clare and I finally were able to squeeze on the the third bus that came along, but Dad and Charlie had to wait. Charlie was not happy.

Twenty-five minutes later, a completely empty bus came along and picked up Dad and Charlie and everyone else who was still waiting. In all, it took us about two and a half hours to get eight miles up the mountain to Logan Pass.

The Highline Trail is at or above the treeline for most of the way. We hiked in this direction because the trail has a gain of 1,300 feet and a loss of 3,700 feet — meaning, some uphill, but mostly downhill. If we had hiked in the opposite direction, starting at The Loop and ending at Logan Pass, it would have been mostly up. Meaning, killer. 

For the first half of the hike we paralleled the Going to the Sun Road, the only road that winds through this vast million-acre park. Only we were much farther up.

Here’s an “up” section: Climbing toward Haystack Butte.

Lunch break!

At mile 6.8, Dad and I decided to take a .6-mile spur trail straight up to Grinell Glacier. Charlie and Clare, who were already pretty pooped, were very angry with that decision. Charlie yelled, “I hate this trip!” then charged past us up the trail. He wasted so much energy on storming up the mountain that he had to stop, 100 yards from the top, coughing and wheezing and crying. I thought he was going to pass out. I got him calmed down and breathing normally, and we finally made it to the top. In truth, we all staggered to the top. it was one of the hardest climbs I’ve had to do. With every step, I felt like I weighed 400 pounds. 

Glacier view

At mile 7.6 we came upon Granite Park Chalet where people can stay. Guests have to pack in their own water and do their own cooking. It’s only accessible by trail. I was able to buy a couple of candy bars -- a sweet reward for making it this far!

 

I thought the shutters on the first floor of the chalet were interesting. Grizzly bear- and zombie-proof.

After the chalet, it’s four miles of downhill. Hiking uphill is tough. But hiking downhill may be harder. On my knees, at least. What I wouldn’t give for some extra cartilage in my right knee. At this point, by about mile 12.5, I was asking, "WHERE IS THE FREAKING CAR?"

We made it! Dinner in West Glacier, just outside the park’s entrance. Then showers. Then bed. On a difficulty scale of One to Harding Icefield Trail, this was a solid six.